Kegeraters 101
Why worry about bottles and cans, when you can drink straight draught beer directly from a keg? A carefully built kegerater is a great commodity for any college student. Kegeraters are popular in all bars, but can be easily built in a home or apartment with the proper supplies and instruction. A kegerater is a system that not only keeps a beer keg cold, but also properly dispenses the correct mix of beer and Co2 through its faucet. There are six important pieces to a kegerater and seven important steps in building a kegerater.
The first and foremost important piece of a kegerater system, besides the keg itself, is the refrigerator, or fridge. Depending on what fridge is available to use and what fridge will hold the desired keg size, selecting the right fridge is most important. There are three rules in selecting a fridge. One, the fridge must be big enough to hold the keg. Some fridges must be altered to fit a full barrel keg. A full size keg is roughly 33” tall and 19” in diameter; where as half kegs are 27” by 19”. Secondly, the fridge must be able to be consistent temperature and must have a way of controlling the temperature. Third and most importantly, the fridge must be able to be drilled. Don’t use your parents kitchen fridge that they value, unless they value keg beer also. Fridges are the most expensive part of the system, and can cost anywhere from $150 used to $1800 brand new. Refrigeration keeps that cold beer flavor most beer connoisseur enjoy, so pick the right fridge.
As for the mechanical parts involved in a kegerater system, there are three important parts, and important hoses and clamps to connect them. At this point there should be two holes drilled in the fridge, both 7/8” in diameter. Make sure not to hit any wires or tubes while drilling this hole, it will mess up the fridge, and that is not a good thing.
First important part of this is the Co2 tank. Co2 is used to put pressure in the keg, therefore, pushing the beer out of the keg and eventually into a cup. It is recommended to get either a tank that supports either 5 lbs or 10 lbs of Co2 pressure. Co2 tanks cost roughly $100.
Next, connected to the Co2 Tank, is a regulator. Although in terms of building a kegerater, it is called a keg-ulator. The kegulator measures and controls the amount of Co2 pressure that flows into the keg. It is suggested to allow between 8 and 10 lbs of Co2 pressure pass through the kegulator.
Now, there should be a hose, called a Co2 hose, connected to the kegulator passing through one drilled hole in the fridge. This hose leads to another piece called a coupler. The coupler sits on top of the keg (inside the fridge now), and opens up the keg to push beer out. Couplers cost about $40. Note: Do not puncture keg until you have completed the whole system or beer will start spraying everywhere and you will lose beer, this is also not a good thing.
On the other end of the coupler there is to be a hose flowing back out of the fridge, and to the area that the beer should be poured from. This hose is called a beer hose. There are several ways to display the final piece, which is where the beer pours. This piece is called either a faucet, shank, or tower. The tower can be mounted to the top of the fridge or drilled onto a counter-top.
The biggest thing one must watch out for while building is to make sure all connections are tightly fastened. The biggest problem with kegeraters is loosely fitted clamps and hoses. The total system costs somewhere around $400 depending mostly on the type of fridge. With the proper building care and following the instructions, a kegerater can be a fun and easy system to build. By following the seven steps and securing the six essential parts, anyone who wants to drink draught beer at home can do so. Just remember to only serve those over the age of 21, or those with a decent looking fake ID.
The first and foremost important piece of a kegerater system, besides the keg itself, is the refrigerator, or fridge. Depending on what fridge is available to use and what fridge will hold the desired keg size, selecting the right fridge is most important. There are three rules in selecting a fridge. One, the fridge must be big enough to hold the keg. Some fridges must be altered to fit a full barrel keg. A full size keg is roughly 33” tall and 19” in diameter; where as half kegs are 27” by 19”. Secondly, the fridge must be able to be consistent temperature and must have a way of controlling the temperature. Third and most importantly, the fridge must be able to be drilled. Don’t use your parents kitchen fridge that they value, unless they value keg beer also. Fridges are the most expensive part of the system, and can cost anywhere from $150 used to $1800 brand new. Refrigeration keeps that cold beer flavor most beer connoisseur enjoy, so pick the right fridge.
As for the mechanical parts involved in a kegerater system, there are three important parts, and important hoses and clamps to connect them. At this point there should be two holes drilled in the fridge, both 7/8” in diameter. Make sure not to hit any wires or tubes while drilling this hole, it will mess up the fridge, and that is not a good thing.
First important part of this is the Co2 tank. Co2 is used to put pressure in the keg, therefore, pushing the beer out of the keg and eventually into a cup. It is recommended to get either a tank that supports either 5 lbs or 10 lbs of Co2 pressure. Co2 tanks cost roughly $100.
Next, connected to the Co2 Tank, is a regulator. Although in terms of building a kegerater, it is called a keg-ulator. The kegulator measures and controls the amount of Co2 pressure that flows into the keg. It is suggested to allow between 8 and 10 lbs of Co2 pressure pass through the kegulator.
Now, there should be a hose, called a Co2 hose, connected to the kegulator passing through one drilled hole in the fridge. This hose leads to another piece called a coupler. The coupler sits on top of the keg (inside the fridge now), and opens up the keg to push beer out. Couplers cost about $40. Note: Do not puncture keg until you have completed the whole system or beer will start spraying everywhere and you will lose beer, this is also not a good thing.
On the other end of the coupler there is to be a hose flowing back out of the fridge, and to the area that the beer should be poured from. This hose is called a beer hose. There are several ways to display the final piece, which is where the beer pours. This piece is called either a faucet, shank, or tower. The tower can be mounted to the top of the fridge or drilled onto a counter-top.
The biggest thing one must watch out for while building is to make sure all connections are tightly fastened. The biggest problem with kegeraters is loosely fitted clamps and hoses. The total system costs somewhere around $400 depending mostly on the type of fridge. With the proper building care and following the instructions, a kegerater can be a fun and easy system to build. By following the seven steps and securing the six essential parts, anyone who wants to drink draught beer at home can do so. Just remember to only serve those over the age of 21, or those with a decent looking fake ID.
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